WASHINGTON, DC – Customers looking for Méli Wine & Mezze in the Washington, DC neighborhood of Adams Morgan won’t find any neon signs because it’s location has limited the restaurant to a little sandwich board on a sidewalk as a guide.

But find it, recommends The Washington Post’s long-time food critic Tom Sietsema, who says it’s worth the look for the food and because it “makes a lovely landing for drinks and dips.”

You’ll also have to pass through some sets of glass doors and the entrance has changed a couple of times since opening in May, confusing first-time customers, often waved in by those already inside. There’s also green chalk on the sidewalk.

He said Executive Chef Katarina Petonito knows Greek food, having cooked at the former Kapnos Kouzina in Bethesda, Maryland and her chef de cuisine at Méli is Keri Wieczorek, who was at the Culinary Institute of America with her.

Méli translates from Greek to ‘honey’ and charges a $25 annual membership fee for two diners (or $50 for up to five) but customers can try before they buy, the fees donated to local nonprofit groups.