CHICAGO – With a Greek name like Nisos Mediterranean and chef Avegeria Stapaki convinced to leave Mykonos to come cook in Chicago you’d think it would be a Greek restaurant but there’s more to the menu.

Unlike traditional Greek diners and restaurants that offer tried-and-true traditional fare at moderate prices and target families and those with a budget in mind, you’ll have to stop at an ATM before hitting Nisos.

It got a mixed review from the Chicago Tribune’s Nick Kindelsperger, who said the example was set by an experimental version of moussaka, shaped like a cylinder, with potato sticks and a fog of cinnamon tea dry ice  – for $28.

“While the flavor is all there, deconstructing moussaka also accentuates the mushiness of the eggplant and stewed beef,” he wrote, adding that like other offerings, “the substance doesn’t quite live up to the premium you pay for the presentation.”

Like the fish, including a highly-praised white-fleshed sea bream – that was filled with bones – and will cost you $126 per kilogram (2.2 pounds) – and he noted that the prices aren’t displayed so you’ll have to dish it out.