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General News

Ouch! Philadelphia’s Almyra Greek Restaurant Sure Disappoints This Critic

The Philadelphia Inquirer’s food critic Craig LaBan was a fan of humble patty melts, mushroom barley soup, and stuffed cabbage at Little Pete’s Greek eatery that brought comfort food, but not of what replaced it: the upscale Almyra restaurant.

He said Almyra offers “Instagram-ready Greek island party vibes, but not much else,” and didn’t like the giant white urns shooting pink and white bougainvillea vines into the rafters nor a pounding bouzouki in a 200-seat dining room.

“Is there a more festive new restaurant space in Philly right now than Almyra, the latest creation by the team behind Estia? I doubt it, as iPhone flashes pop off around the room,” he said. But he wants good food, not flash.

He said it feels more like a Mykonos celebration in Philadelphia even if the name refers to a Greek goddess of sea breezes, disappointed by the lack of a compelling vision for what “modern Greek” food might be beyond recasting familiar flavors with touches like turning bifteki beef patties into dumplings.

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