The New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov mentioned this bottle in his most recent list of twenty wines under twenty dollars, and it prompted me to re-taste this one, and I’m glad that I did.
I’ve reviewed a few other wines from Italy’s Piedmont region recently, and have glowing praise for all. This Pelaverga is no exception. A bit of a dark horse in the region, the Pelaverga varietal is not often talked about – when surrounded by Barolo and Barbaresco, it’s hard to come out of the shadows. Pelaverga is well known in the Verduno area, and Burlotto’s expression is simple and beautiful.
If you enjoy the more widely discussed wines of Piedmont, you will certainly enjoy this. Pelaverga shares many characteristics with Nebbiolo based wines, but is a quieter creation.
Light bodied and fresh, this wine has subtle red and black fruit flavors and a hint of invigorating spice. This is a gentle red wine – no heavy, deep tones or biting acidity – just soft, rounded flavors and a crisp finish. Though very light, this is by no means a thin wine, it features complexity and nuance, and is perfect with light fare.